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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end venues. However, nestled prominently among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a high ranking on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its former charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to preserve a tender consistency.

It is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is folded neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly flavour.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I think numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic achievement.